If you’re familiar with the original Berkeley locale, expect the opposite. Instead of a takeout joint with stools, you’ll enter a big subway-tiled space with reclaimed-barn-wood-covered walls and rustic metal light fixtures hanging over dark wood tables, where you’ll probably sit during lunch with a slice of pepperoni or a muffuletta hero.

Burrata ($13) with warm toasted bread and paper-thin slices of prosciutto, is accompanied by a pile of zucchini cut into thin coins, dressed with vinaigrette and topped with toasted pine nuts. It's a pleasant combination that also is an exceptional prelude to one of the three pastas.

One of those choices features a rustic, soulful radiatore ($18) with bolognese sauce and a thick dusting of Parmesan cheese. Another favorite is stuffed shells ($17) - they're huge and are served five to an order - filled with creamy ricotta and nettles, and bathed in a chunky tomato sauce. They're glazed with cheese and baked in the oven until the tips of the shells crisp slightly.