On a downscale urban block in the hip, multiethnic Mission District, virtuoso chef Jason Fox harmonizes a dizzying array of international ingredients.
Commonwealth has a private parking lot, which is good news in the Mission on any night.
"The wines were extremely impressive! If you're looking for a white wine, try the Picpoul De Pinet -- it was perfectly balanced."
Standouts include sea urchin with sweet potato tempura, chrysanthemum leaf, shiso, scallion, and yuzu kosho; and squid and pork belly with jidori egg salad, potato croutons, and herb vinaigrette.
Fox is serving envelope-pushing dishes, at times bewildering, that fit a restaurant as forward-thinking as Commonwealth. Case in point: a portion of proceeds from each tasting menu sold are given to a local charity, with the recipient changing monthly.
What lands at the table could have come from the playbook of the four-star Manresa or Coi. Chef Jason Fox clearly has his own vision, aided by Ian Muntzert. They're part of a new generation of chefs brightening the dining scene by creating innovative food that a decade ago would only be served in plush, white-tablecloth surroundings, with prices to match.