Once upon a time, the Delfina team took a trip to Rome (literally and figuratively). Craig and Annie Stoll were so entranced by the Eternal City that they decided to open a modern trattoria on Valencia. Now people come from far and wide to sample Chef Anthony Strong’s pastas with four classic sauces, offal, and grilled lamb.
"The pasta dishes were spot on: we tried the Amatriciana, Radiatore with lamb ragu, and Cacio e Pepe. Also: there are some great wines on tap (more affordable than bottled wines)."
"This is like SPQR back when it was good.
The sweetbreads are the best appetizer. Don't show any fear; they taste like delicious chicken.
All the pastas are delicious with the exception of the sardine pasta, which can't balance it's flavors well (too sweet, too wet), and the rabbit, which was bland as rabbit tends to be.
Desserts are excellent. Ricotta fritti are perfect donuts."
Chef Anthony Strong's dishes are made all made in a long, open kitchen outfitted with a guanciale case and inspired by Rome, like the offal — fried veal sweetbreads with artichokes — inspired by Rome's meatpacking district.
Wine glasses filled with selections from all over the Roman Empire will clink with ice-cold cocktail glasses out of which diners will sip Italian-inspired drinks (grappa with peach, lemon, egg, and bitters).
The space is decked out with white tile, light hardwood floors, dark wainscoting, raised walnut tables, and a custom steel chandelier, like a modern trattoria.
It’s clear that Locanda is run by pros. The Stolls are nothing if not seasoned at this point. The space itself, designed by Envelope Architecture + Design is unpretentious, yet easy on the eyes and in style with Delfina’s look. White Heath tile walls echo the pizzerias. The ceiling, which is essentially made up of boxes of different shapes, gives you something to look up at. Dark-wood bistro chairs keep it casual. The front of the restaurant is light-filled, with a communal table and a long bar.