Think of Mission Cheese as a wine bar in reverse. You’ll start by ordering from the list of 60 different cheeses, then opt for a riesling with your gouda, and maybe circle back for some sharp cheddar.

Mission Cheese is not a touch-and-smell setup as much as a a point-and-buy. The cheese selection is all-American, with a selection from cheesemakers from Vermont to Wisconsin to, of course, California. But on a Wednesday evening, I didn't see anyone picking up cheese to bring home. Most everyone was enjoying glasses of wine with cheese flights, pressed cheese sandwiches on Della Fattoria bread, and macaroni and cheese with bread crumbs. (Late-nighters, be forewarned that Mission Cheese closes at 8 p.m.)