You’ll first be taken by the sidewalk seating and window-doors that open to the park, but the year-round draw will be the shelter you’ll find in potent cocktails and hearty pub fare like wood-oven-roasted whole fish.
The standout main course, sure to be much photographed and copied, is the small whole chicken. Bronzed by the wood oven, it stands straight up on a unique cast-iron plate. As you carve it — waiters bring a bucket for the bones — the slices fall into a pool of chopped spinach, the top crisp from the oven, with tiny potatoes looking like eggs in grass.
The menu, like the space, is upscale casual. Shared plates are raw, fried, or smoked; meat- and seafood-centric entrees (the famous Marlowe burger, steamed Mediterranean mussels with fennel sausage) are even more robust with wood-fired sides. Chef Jenn Puccio’s burrata starter is masterful: Layer a creamy dollop on salty, deep-fried lemons, top with bright fried basil, and die a little inside.